Bleeding is a discoloration of the topcoat often occurring as a red or yellow color shadowing.

1. Soluble pigments (dyes) from the original coating are dissolved in the solvent of the repair materials and discolor the surface.
2. Bleeding through can also occur when excessive peroxide from the polyester filler is dissolved by the solvent in the repair material. The peroxide reacts with pigments and produces a yellow-brown discoloration in the filler spots. Blue and green color tones are particularly prone to this.
3. Bitumen (or tar residues).

Prevention
Spray over the original coating with an isolating primer and use the stated quantities of peroxide when mixing the polyester filler.

Repair
If there is only slight bleeding through, the whole area should be isolated with Glassohyd Stone Chip and Underbody Protection. If the bleeding through is severe, all paint must be taken off this area and a new paint build applied.

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BLISTERING

Moisture blisters can develop in various forms, sizes, areas and density. Blistering can occur between the individual layers and also beneath the entire paint structure. The paint film is enclosed so that the blisters disappear in dry weather.

1. The surfaces to be coated (filler, bare metal etc.) have not been adequately cleaned. Contamination from soluble salts in water due to dirty water used for sanding or cleaning or sweat from hands (wipe marks like a "string pearls" with a clearly visible arrangement of the blisters) and subsequent effects of moisture on the newly refinished coating over a long period of time.
2. Mechanical damage to the protective coat of paint and subsequent infiltration of the coating round the damaged area.
3. Wet sanding of polyester materials without allowing sufficient water evaporation times before processing with primer and topcoat materials.

Prevention

1. The surface to be coated should be thoroughly washed with clean water or with a hot water jet. Clean thoroughly with Glassomax Silicone and Tar Remover or with Glasurit Panel Cleaner.
2. Spray the coatings in sufficient film builds and allow sufficient time for complete drying.
3. Only dry sand polyester materials.

Repair
Remove the paint right down to where the blisters start. Re-coat with primer and top-coat. Be prepared to strip and repaint if necessary.

(Blowing - Popping)
In the case of this surface problem blisters occur with a fine hole in the middle.
The occurrence of these bubbles can have various different causes.

1. The coats were applied too thick or heavy.
2. The use of unsuitable thinner (too fast).
3. Too short a drying time between the individual spray processes.
4. Too high an object temperature to accelerate the drying.
5. Too long an air drying time for two components paints before the object is placed in the oven.
6. The use of infrared lamps can cause too high a surface temperature if the lamps are too close to the object.

Prevention
To avoid the occurrence of bubbles the correct thinner for the corresponding spray temperature should be used, and the recommended film build should not be exceeded. Furthermore it is recommended that the viscosity is reduced (i.e. add more thinner), observe the correct flash off times and the drying temperatures, and ensure that there is an adequate distance between the surface and the infra red lamp.

Repair
If there is only minor surface damage, sand the topcoat with P 1200 paper and then polish with Glasurit Fine Polishing Paste and Glasurit High Gloss Polish. If there is greater surface damage the bubbles must be sanded down to the level where they occur and affected areas should be repainted.

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CLOUDING

(Mottling-Floating-Flooding)
Clouding is a speckled appearance of metallic finish which covers a large area.

Causes

1. The base-coat has been applied in uneven coats.
2. The flash off of the base-coat was too short before the clear-coat was applied. This can cause the metallic coat to be re dissolved. Result: The metallic and pigment particles float and change their position.
3. Too wet a spray application to the first clear-coat, causing a redissolving of the basecoat.

Prevention
Spray the metallic base-coat evenly and not too wet. Ensure that the correct flash off time is allowed before the application of the clear-coat in accordance with the manufacturers instructions.

Repair
If cloudiness is visible before the clear-coat application, respray with base-coat thinned normally (do not over or under thin) and reduce the pressure of the spray gun. If clouding is only visible after the application of the clear-coat, sand the clear-coat when dry and re-coat with base-coat and clear-coat.

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CRACKING

(Alligatoring - Crocodiling - Crazing)
Cracks of different length and width spread in various directions in the top coats.

Causes
Normally cracking occurs due to wide fluctuation of temperature acting on the paint film build under the following conditions.

1. When the paint film build has too high a coat thickness.
2. Application of a repair finish over old paint-work which already contains barely visible hairline cracks.
3. Use of paint materials which are not designed to adapt to each others hardness or flexibility (e.g. a hard and rigid polyester stopper or filler, applied to a thermoplastic acrylic T.P.A. top coat, will lead to cracking due to the tensions caused by different expansion and contraction forces.)

Prevention
Only apply materials which are recommended for use with each other and keep to the film builds recommended by the manufacture. Sand down thoroughly until all traces of cracks are removed and repaint as required.

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CRATERING

(Fish Eyes - Cissing)
Craters are circular dents with raised edges in the topcoat or the intermediate coats.

Causes

1. Oil, fat, wax and silicone polish residue were not thoroughly removed from the surface to be coated.
2. Contamination from the air, e.g. spray mist from another type of paint.
3. Oils or water from the compressed air.
4. Silicones from the aerosol cans (Water repellents).
5. Foreign substances from industrial plants near by.

Prevention
Only a very thorough cleaning of the areas to be coated can prevent craters from forming. If products which contain silicone (polish, sealing compounds) are used this should be carried out in a separate area, totally away from the spray area.

Repair
If craters have formed, then sand this layer of paint thoroughly clean, and apply a new layer of paint.

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DUST CONTAMINATION

(Dirt- Bits)
This contamination is due to visible dust particles of various sizes and forms which are embedded or form raised spots in the topcoat.

Causes
Dust contamination can be caused by various problems.

1. Inadequate cleaning of the vehicle after sanding.
2. Unsuitable working clothes which leave dust, or dirt fibers.
3. Dust problems caused in the booth e.g. the dust filter is dirty or leaks, the pressure balance is incorrect, the booth is very dirty or there is no or inadequate filtration of the pressurized air supply.

Prevention
Contamination can be avoided if everything is kept scrupulously clean. The objects to be painted must be carefully cleaned. Booths, filters and work-tools must be kept clean.

Repair
Slight dust contamination can be sanded down with P 1200 sandpaper and then polished with Glasurit Fine Polishing Paste and Glasurit High Gloss Polish. Larger marks should be sanded down and then refinished.

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INDUSTRIAL FALL-OUT

(Contamination - Staining - Lime Marking)
The paint-work has been attacked and corroded or discolored by aggressive substances such as industrial waste gases, resins, petrol or chemicals, which in the worst cases, causes the surface finish to be destroyed.

Causes

1. In the case of discoloration by tar, components migrate into the paint surface and dirty brownish black specks are left.
2. Industrial waste gases, chemicals or tar penetrate into the surface of the paint and discolor the topcoat. This can be caused by a chemical reaction with the pigments (e.g. in the case of acids).
3. Aggressive substance such as resins, petrol and bird lime corrode the paint-work. Depending on the length of time the substance is left to react, the corrosive effects can be so bad that the paint is decomposed and therefore destroyed.

Prevention
To avoid the formation of contamination the vehicle should be washed more often and preserved from time to time with Glasurit High Gloss Polish or Glasurit Hard Wax.

Repair
Slight discoloration can often be removed by polishing with Glasurit Fine Polishing Paste or Glasurit High Gloss Polish. Severe problems need to be sanded down beyond the affected coat and refinished.

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LIFTING

(Sweating - Swelling)
Marks showing the definition of edges of old paint, or primer or spots of body filler or stopper.

Causes
The possible causes of these swelling edges are:

1. The old paint-work to be refinished was not sanded finely enough.
2. The feathered area of primer to old paint or of old paint to the body metal was too course and was not sanded as carefully sanded down.
3. The filler spots were not thoroughly and carefully sanded down.
4. The filler was sprayed too thick and not allowed to dry sufficiently.

Repair
If there are visible edge marks in the paint-work, the affected areas must be sanded down and refinished (filler and top-coat).

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LOSS OF GLOSS or MATTING

(Sinking - Poor Hold Out)
The topcoat surface appears uneven and with a slight texture. The microstructure of the surface can give rise to a reduction of gloss.

Causes

1. Insufficient curing of the primer before application of the topcoat, the drying time was too short, or the film build too high.
2. Coarse filler was applied without the application over the top with a fine stopper.
3. Too few coats of topcoats applied.
4. Topcoat applied too thickly. Residual solvents can only escape after a long drying period leading to shrinkage.

Prevention
To avoid this sinking and texturing effect, apply primer and topcoats only to the film builds recommended by the manufacturer and observe sufficient flash off and drying times between the different coats.

Repair
Allow the entire paint system to cure thoroughly and if necessary force dry. Sand surface and repaint.

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ORANGE PEEL

(Dry Spray- Poor Flow)
The paint has an uneven texture which is similar to the skin of an orange.

Causes

1. The spray gun is held too far from the surface being sprayed.
2. The spray pressure is too low and the atomization not fine enough.
3. The top coat is applied too lightly.
4. The spray application is too dry because the paint supply from the spray gun is set too low.
5. Viscosity of the paint is too high.
6. Thinner used is too fast.
7. Surface or spray temperature.

Prevention
To avoid this effect only use the recommended spray techniques for the particular paint material. Select the thinner corresponding to the spray temperature and adjust the spray viscosity according to the manufacturers instructions.

Repair
If the effect is only minor, rub down with P 1200 paper and then treat with Glasurit Fine Polishing Paste and Glasurit High Gloss Polish. If the orange peel effect is very pronounced rub down with P 800 paper and then refinish.

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PINHOLES

Causes

• Substrate insufficiently dried
• Polyester material not isolated
• Pores not deeply sanded

Prevention

• Allow prep materials to dry thoroughly
• Deeply sand pores or re-stop

Repair

• Deeply sand damaged area and repaint

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POLISHING MASKS

Causes

• Top coat not through-dried
• Sanding paper too coarse
• Unsuitable polish
• Polishing through on edges

Prevention

• Thoroughly dry top coat, if necessary re-bake
• Use suitable polish and equipment (e.g. Standohyd Polishing Paste Fine)
• Use correct sand paper
• Use polish, free of amonia

Repair

• Thoroughly dry top coat, sand and repaint

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POOR ADHESION

(Peeling - Flaking)
Adhesion loss can occur in two different ways. Firstly there can be adhesion problems to the substrate (total paint structure) and secondly there can be an inadequate bond between the individual coats (Inter-coat Adhesion).

Causes
Adhesion loss can occur if:

1. Substances which cause adhesion problems are left on the substrate to be coated (e.g. Silicone, oil, fat, wax, rust, polishing residue, etc).
2. An incorrect primer was applied to the substrate.
3. Sanding of the substrate was inadequate or not carried out at all.
4. The primer or base-coat was too dry or too thinly applied.
5. Flash off time between coats of Base-Coat Metallic are too short with the material being applied too thick.

Prevention
To avoid adhesion loss occurring, the correct primer should be used for problem substrates (e.g. Aluminum and plastics), the primer should be applied in sufficient film build and the manufacturers instructions should be followed. Avoid too much spray dust and allow adequate flash off times especially when applied in thick coats.

Repair
Remove the coats with poor adhesion by sanding and re-coating.

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POOR HIDING

(Poor Covering - Poor Opacity)
Old paint, spot primer or areas of filler are visible through the topcoat. The paint-work is "dappled" and uneven in color.

Causes

1. The substrate was not even in color all over the painted area.
2. The topcoat was not thoroughly mixed before use.
3. The incorrect thinner was used.
4. The coats of paint were too thinly applied.

Prevention
To obtain a good finish with good hiding power it is necessary:

1. To spray on a uniform base primer coat.
2. Stir the topcoat well before use.
3. Only use the thinner stated in the instructions for use.
4. Spray a sufficient film build of paint. The optimum film build for unicolors is 50 - 70 ,um (Exception: certain lead chromate free yellow and red tones). Target optimum film build for the two coat metallic colors is 15-30 um. (Exception: certain very transparent colors). We recommend the use of Glassodur tinting filler for certain colors which do not cover well due to the pigmentation used. If the hiding power is poor it is possible after drying to wet sand with P 800 and then refinish.

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RUNS

(Sags - Curtains)
These are beads, droplets or even large globules, so-called "curtain effect" which have run vertically down the panel.

Causes

1. The nozzle on the spray gun was too large.
2. The spray technique was not suitable for the material. The material application was too wet because the gun was too close to the object or the spray movement was to slow.
3. The coats of paint were applied too thickly.
4. The flash off time between individual coats was not long enough.
5. Thinner or hardener were too strong for the particular spray conditions. This happens particularly when spraying small areas or in low spray temperatures.

Prevention
To avoid the formation of runs it is necessary to observe that the spray guns, application technique and the adjustment of the paint materials are suited to the spray conditions, i.e. where necessary use a smaller nozzle with better atomization and faster thinners.

Repair
Small runs can be removed once dry with a paint nib plane. Then rub down with P 1000-1200 paper and finally polish with Glasurit Fine Polishing Paste and High Gloss Polish. Large areas of "curtailing" must, however, be completely sanded down and refinished.

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RUST

(Corrosion)
Subsurface rusting is visible as paint damage due to irregular bumps in the paint (blisters). If the blisters burst or crack, brown spots of corrosion (rust) are visible. In the case of an aluminum body, white spots of corrosion (white rust) are visible.

Causes

1. Moisture penetration, due to cracks or mechanical damage (e.g.. stone chips) to the paint-work, right down to the bare metal.
2. Before refinishing rust was not thoroughly removed. New rust appears due to the penetration of humidity in the air.
3. The surface of the metal has been contaminated, e.g.. with hygroscopic salts or sweat from hands. Rust and water blisters form due to the reaction with moisture from the air.

Prevention
Rusting can be prevented by thoroughly washing the old paint-work with clean water if possible with demineralised water (or even better with a steam jet) to remove all dust salt and dirt. Remove all rust thoroughly before refinishing (preferably by sand blasting) and carefully re-clean before repainting. Remove all stone chips and other mechanical damage immediately.

The damaged surface must be stripped with paint stripper or sanded down or removed with sand blasting. Rust must be thoroughly removed to leave the surface as perfectly clean metal. Use an anti-corrosive primer such as Glassofix Etch Primer Filler or Glassofix Primer Filler EP before the new paint finish is applied.

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SANDING SCRATCHES

Sanding marks are visible either individually or in a large number as grooves in the surface of the paint, which follow the lines of sanding operations prior to painting.

Causes

1. The primer and/or the filler was sanded with paper that was too coarse. The sanding marks then show up in the next coat of paint as small grooves in the surface of the paint.
2. The recommended drying times of primer were not adhered to. The sanding marks become visible after the drying of the paint finish sinks into the uncured primer material.
3. The use of sanding discs and papers on the car body which are too coarse, always increases the possibility of the appearance of sanding marks.

Prevention
It is possible to avoid sanding marks by using the recommended grade paper for the type of paint used and the application of a coat of black guide coat before the fine sanding of filler and primer materials.

Repair
The marks in the substrate must be sanded down so that a new paint build up (Primer and topcoat) can be applied.

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SEEDS

(Specks)
Seeds develops in varying shapes, sizes and number which are embedded in the surface of the paint-work.

Causes

1. The use of paint which has been kept longer than its recommended storage life.
2. The addition of incorrect hardener or thinner.
3. The use of re-thinned 2K materials whose pot-life has already been exceeded.
4. Pigment conglomeration due to insufficiently stirred material.

Prevention
Always apply the paint materials in accordance with the instructions from the manufacturer (i.e. only the correct thinner and hardener) and ensure that the life is not exceeded. The paint should also be well stirred and filtered before use.

Repair
In minor cases the seed can be sanded with P 1200 paper and then polished with Glasurit Fine Polishing Paste and Glasurit High Gloss Polish. If the surface damage is severe and covers a large area, the paint must be sanded off before new coats of paint are applied. It may be necessary to use a primer filler first.

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STONE CHIPPING

Stone chips are small areas of damage to the paint-work caused by stones or loose chippings.

Causes
Stones or other hard substances (e.g. loose chippings) hit the vehicle with varying amounts of force (speed). Depending on the force of the impact not only the topcoat but the entire paint film build can be destroyed. Moisture can then penetrate the areas causing corrosion and further paint detachment.

Prevention
Stone chip damage to the paint surface is very difficult to prevent. However, the use of Glassohyd Stone Chip Protection Primer when refinishing can minimize the extent of the damage and prevent penetration down to the metal.

Repair
In the case of minor damage to the topcoat improvements can be made with a touch up kit. However, if the damage affects a large area, the damaged area must be sanded down and new coats of paint applied (primer, stopper, filler & topcoat).

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WRINKLING

(Crinkling - Puckering - Rivelling - Shrivelling)
Irregular grooves/ridges form on the surface if the surface layers of paint dry much quicker than the layers of paint below. The surface of the paint then "wrinkles". This only happens with synthetic paints which dry by oxidation.

Causes

1. The synthetic topcoats were applied too thick.
2. Unfavorable drying conditions (e.g. very high room temperature).

Prevention
Ensure that the correct film build are applied and that the temperature and drying conditions are suitable.

Repair
In the case of minor defects allow the surface to dry out completely then sand down to the cured layer and refinish. If the problem is severe, the entire paint system must be removed with paint stripper and the surface completely refinished.

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WATER SPOTTING

(Rain Spotting - Water Marking)
Water spotting appear as circular, mainly whitish spots / marks on the surface of the paint.

Water spots / marks appear if water droplets (rain or dew), together with pollution from the air (e.g. dust, chalk or salt) dries on to the surface. Normally no damage appears within the circular marks, only the edges are seen as raised marks. The problem of water spotting only occurs with freshly painted paint finishes which have not been thoroughly dried / cured.

Prevention
When refinishing, ensure the correct drying times and temperatures are used before the paint-work is subjected to moisture. If the vehicle (part) does get wet, we recommend that it is dried immediately by wiping with a soft chamois leather.

Repair
Normally to simply wipe the affected area with a damp leather and then treat with Glasurit High Gloss Polish is sufficient. If this is not successful the affected area must be dried and then sanded until matte with P 800 paper and then refinished.